Action Photography - Capturing the Moment

This is an excerpt from the book “Sports Photography: How to Capture Action and Emotion” by Peter Skinner.
Australian butterfly swimmer Pierce Hardy of Caloundra, Queensland, powers to the end of the pool. Swimmers are best photographed as they burst above the water. Nikon D1X, ISO 200, 300mm f4 lens, 1/1000 at f5.6.
© 2008, Peter Skinner, All Rights Reserved

Virtually every day we see great sports action photographs in newspapers and magazines. As the term implies, the photographers who made these images have truly “captured the action.” Because we see them so often, it can be easy to overlook the skill and talent involved in producing these attention-grabbing photographs. While luck might be involved in making great sports shots, invariably luck favors the photographer who knows what to expect, and is well prepared to capitalize on that fleeting, never-to-be-repeated moment when something extraordinary happens.

Pre-focusing on a spot and anticipating the peak of action is part of a successful formula for Brian Robb. Here downhill skier Lindsey Kildow, USA, competes in the 2005 US alpine championships at Mammoth, California. Canon 1D Mark II, ISO 160, 300mm f2.8 lens with 1.4x extender, 1/1300 at f7.1.
© 2008, Brian Robb, All Rights Reserved

Action Photography - Capturing the Moment | Part II

Know the course and the best vantage points. Keep in mind the time of day, the angle of the sun and how long that spot is likely to be well lit. Ask officials about the course layout. These people want coverage of their events and will probably do what they can to help you but don’t leave the approach to the last minute! Also, ask if and when access to any part of a course might be closed. Rushing to a great location only to find it is off limits would be frustrating, to say the least.

Once you’ve selected the best vantage spots get the approximate times that athletes will get there after the start and how many circuits will be made. An elevated vantage point can be handy and you can even take your own, such as a small, lightweight stepladder, an aid that Bob Woodward uses often.
Track events are bounded by lines and lanes, elements of graphic design that the well-trained eye can harness. Duane Hart has done just that in an overhead view of the start of a race at the 2000 Olympic Games. Canon 10D, 200mm f1.8 lens, ISO 100, 1/1000 at f4.
© 2008, Duane Hart/sportingimages.com.au, All Rights Reserved


Still Life Photography - Four Tips

Throughout the decades, artists have depicted still life scenes--arrangements of inanimate objects--in paintings and photography. Shooting still life subjects is one of the best ways to sharpen your photographic skills. You can take your time, and your subject remains stationary. Good composition, framing and lighting are all very important to translate your still life into a great photo.

Reader photo by Tom Reich, Tuscon, AZ

Study Good Photos
Every day we are bombarded with still life images of appetizing foods, shiny housewares and other appealing products in magazine ads, brochures and catalogs. Professionals spend a great deal of time setting up these shots and you can learn a lot just by studying the photos you find most appealing and unique. Notice how photographers use repeating shapes and lines to create patterns and use complimentary colors. Study the lighting that they use. One of the best things you can do before you shoot still lifes is to collect images that inspire you.
Reader photo by Kenneth A. Deitcher, Albany, NY

Enhancing Outdoor Portraits Using Fill Flash

When the weather is nice outdoors, nothing beats an informal portrait. You do not want to shoot in the direct sunlight because your subject will be squinting. However, if you can find a shady spot under a tree, both you and your subject will be much happier.

So, how can you take the best portrait outdoors and still compete with the sun? The answer is usually right on top of your camera—the flash. You may not want to use the full intensity of the flash to combat the effects of the sun, but depending on your subject’s location, time of day, and hair color, you probably have more control than you think.

Grouping subjects by hair color, I’ll explain what techniques have worked for me on the warmth of a summer day and in the crispness of a colorful fall day. Beginning with brunettes, I usually have females sit under a tree and look up at the camera. They will be in shade because of the tree and the only ambient light is what is bouncing or reflecting off the ground. Knowing that dark colors absorb light (like dark hair) and lighter colors reflect light (blonde hair), I adjust my flash accordingly. Keep in mind the distance from your subject (I’m standing, she’s sitting) and their skin tone.

Here are a few rules to keep in mind: direct sun rarely works well; instead choose a shady spot and let your compensated flash be your fill light source. It provides the needed illumination plus benefits such as sparkling eyes, daylight-balanced skin tone, and less background/subject exposure variations.

I will always use the flash outdoors to fill in the shadows created by the sun, but in this case, I wanted to add illumination to the shot and make her eyes sparkle. This will be one of the few times I will use the fill flash at full strength. In this instance, the flash lightens her skin slightly, creates a twinkle in her eyes, and causes a mild shimmer to her hair.
Chris was placed in the shade of a tree with a much brighter background. Still using the flash as fill, I backed down the flash compensation to -1 EV. I don’t want the flash at full power because his skin tone is light and I want to avoid overexposure. The camera’s flash is daylight-balanced (5600?K) and an overcast day often causes a blue cast. The warmth of the flash added a little color to his light skin.
Abbie—Dark Hair, Brown Eyes, Olive Skin
Chris—Light Skin, Dark Hair, Light Beard

Creative Look - Combine Your Images

I had a thought (it happens!) back in the `80s. I was thinking how great it would be to create a portrait piece of someone that combined several images together to show the many facets of that individual. Let's take an example. Suppose you were commissioned to do a portrait of a young man. His interests may include playing football, swimming, sailing, playing guitar, etc.
"Morning Ritual"
The clients own a Coffee company so this brought on the theme. The image is composed of 8 separate photos, one of each client, the cup, the pot, and 2 separate hands. A plain Rembrandt background and several smoke photos were used; the rest was cut and pasted and blended in Photoshop.
© 2007, Craig Kienast, All Rights Reserved
My thinking was to photograph this individual while he was doing these activities, and somehow combine all these images together into one super image with all the individual ones. Great idea, right? Man, I thought, I could get paid a fortune for doing this kind of work! The only problem was, I couldn't figure out how to do it! Make a few small prints and tack them up and copy them? Not quite the elegant image I was going for. Print them on one piece of paper using masking techniques? Possibly, but not an easy task for someone not owning a color lab. Do a "brain shot" like at weddings, where you put the bride's face in the groom's head? Yuck! Oh well, nice idea, but just too complicated and time consuming. Time to move on.
This shows the 2 images to combine for the final result.
© 2007, Steve Bedell, All Rights Reserved
Fast forward to 2006. Film is fast becoming a memory, and anyone with image-editing software is capable of combining images to create spectacular effects. Of course, the key word here is capable, because the old computer axiom of "Garbage In, Garbage Out" is especially true of today's digital photographer. But in the hands of a skilled artist/photographer, wonderful things can happen.
This is the final image from the studio shot and some weeds blended together. (Model: Bridget Brunet.)
© 2007, Steve Bedell, All Rights Reserved

From Color To Black & White In A Few Steps - Plugins

One of the reasons photographic purists usually refer to black and white prints as “monochrome” is that it’s a more precise descriptive term that also covers images produced in sepia and other tones. There is much more to black and white photography than simply an absence of color. Maybe we wouldn’t feel this way if the first photographs had been made in full color but that didn’t happen. Like many photographers, I grew up admiring the works of W. Eugene Smith and other photojournalists who photographed people at work, play, or just being themselves, all in glorious black and white.
© 2003, Joe Farace, All Rights Reserved
© 2008, Joe Farace, All Rights Reserved
One of the advantages of working with monochromatic digital photographs is the original image can come from many sources. Some digital cameras have Black and White or Sepia modes for capturing images directly in monochrome but more often than not they capture these photographs in RGB. Yup, it’s a color file without any color! You can also capture your images in color, then use any of the software that I’ll introduce you to and convert that full color photograph into a monochromatic one. As a creative medium, traditionalists may still call it “monochrome” while digital imagers may prefer the computerese “grayscale,” but, to paraphrase Billy Joel, “It’s still black and white to me.”

One of my favorite ways to convert a color file into monochrome is to use Photoshop-compatible plug-ins. You can always use the Black and White New Adjustment Layer (Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Black & White) in Adobe’s Photoshop and it’s a pretty good tool as far as it goes, but this story is about monochrome conversion plug-ins.
© 2006, Joe Farace, All Rights Reserved
© 2006, Joe Farace, All Rights Reserved
Monochrome Conversion
Nik Software’s (www.niksoftware.com) Silver Efex Pro is a Photoshop- and Aperture-compatible plug-in that offers emulations of 18 different black and white films from Agfa, Fuji, Ilford, and Kodak, along with a grain engine that mimics the traditional silver halide process. In the Film Types area on the right-hand side of the stunningly designed interface, you’ll also find controls for Sensitivity and Tonal Curve, allowing fine-tuning of the conversion.

The plug-in uses Nik Software’s patented and insanely cool U Point technology, borrowed from Nikon’s Capture NX software, that allows selective control of an image’s brightness, contrast, and structure, adding another level of control. By placing points on specific parts of the photo you can control how much of the effect is applied to only those areas. When making the final monochrome conversions, Silver Efex Pro uses algorithms to protect against creating unwanted artifacts. The plug-in costs $199.95, and works with 8- and 16-bit images, RGB, CMYK, and LAB color spaces, and is compatible with Photoshop’s Smart Filters feature.
You can work with Nik Software’s Silver Efex Pro on two levels: You can use the one-click presets in the Style Browser (left-hand side) or you can manually shift gears by using the controls on the right-hand side. Here you’ll find access to control points, color filters, specific film responses, and a stylizing menu that lets you tone and vignette. Style Browser provides an overview of all of the available styles, with thumbnails showing each style’s effect on the image. The interface also has a digital loupe, to let you check out specific image details.
© 2003, Joe Farace, All Rights Reserved

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